No card code only master key.. Help

Hi,

I was hoping somebody could shine some light on my situation. The car started, drove 100 meters then in died on me. Took it to the mechanics so that they could put a tester on it to see what was wrong. They said it was the immobiliser that needed replacing. So we have ordered a new one.. but ofcourse they need the card code. We weren't given one when we bought the car.. and we have tried finding out if any of the previous owners or dealers have it.. but no luck. I was just curious if it is possible to take the code out of the master key. We only have a master key and one red everyday key. If anyone has experience with this.. or any ideas.. I would appreciate it.

Thanks, Tara

Hi Tara welcome to AO.

moved to 146 forum

Hi Tara
If it was a similar problem in the UK we can get our codes by contacting the importers - Alfa UK. Can you contact Alfa Denmark and see if they have anything on record?

Dont think you need the code card for the immo, but they will need it to order the cutting profile of the new key you will need. ( you need 3 keys in total to fit a new immo.)
You could order the immo and order a new uncut key, then take key to locksmith and get it profiled from the ones you have, then load in keys in normal way starting with master key.

BTW most unlikely the immo expired during engine running. Once the immo activates the ecu, the ONLY other thing that the immo can do is to turn on the keycode light, it CANNOT STOP THE ENGINE.
You should take the car to a more competant engineer before you start wasting money.

the code card is available with alarm code / mechanical key no and immobilizer code i used kinghams of croydon they charged me £20 + vat and it comes throught with in 15 mins from italy all you need to do is pay them and send a copy of your logbook but you dont allways need it that doesnt sound like an immolizer fault to me

I'd be sceptical that it's the immobiliser.

It does NOT sound like the immob to me, being a boxer I'd start at the HT leads and coils if the engine just cut out, you could also try and reset the fuel crash switch, that is the most likely cause for cuting out a running engine unless you've thrown the cambelt.

If the engine just spluttered to a stop while driving along and will no longer start then my money would be on a faulty Crank Postion Sensor (also known as the RPM Sensor). If this isn't working properly then the engine doesn't know the correct time to fire a spark in each of the 4 cylinders so the car won't start or run.

As per the others, very doubtful your problem is cause by a faulty CODE immobiliser. Are you getting the yellow CODE light illuminated in the instrument cluster? (this has a picture of a key with the word "CODE" underneath it). If not then it's very unlikely to be an immobiliser related problem.

My husband tried to check the ignition, but there wasn't any spark from all four spark plugs. There wasn't any yellow code light when I put the key in the ignition. The fuel managment failure, had been lit on and off a week befor it happened.. any ideas there?

But since we have a new immobiliser.. we need the two codes to code it .. but is it true about needing three keys to start the new immobiliser up?

Hi again Tara,
When you turn on ignition, does the key code light come on then go off?.

The advice is still the same, if the engine died during running, then its not the immobiliser.
I suggest you check for +12v on ecu pins A16 & A18 with ignition on.
Also check immo pins 3 & 8 for 12v with ignition on.

Probable fault is poor connections around engine relay, connections, fuse and connections, rotted wiring.

In the unlikely event of these voltages being present the immo is at fault.
Yes same as before you need 3 unique keys to load into immo.
You do not need the code card it only contains the emergency start for immobiliser, the profile code for key blade and maybe the remote code/s.

Well, we are definelty doubting the mechanic, who says that it is the immobiliser..
Now All I need is a bit more info on what the **** ecu pins are.. and how one goes about testing them. My husband isn't quite sure how he will be able to check them himself.. any suggestions?

Does anyone have any experience in figuring out if a relay needs to be switched.. I was talking to a mechanic, and he said it could be my relay that needed to be replaced.. Since it can affect the centralized locking system control unit..

Here's a pic of ecu its on the throttle body I think if I have he correct car model.