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Definitive 159/ Brera Buyers Guide

134K views 139 replies 72 participants last post by  mr c 
#1 · (Edited)
One of the most asked questions, so written this, (I've edited with some of the comments as needed, please comment on this for any major corrections or additions).

Need some Brera info if anyone can help, though much of the information below is relevant to both models


Trim Levels

Anyone looking to buy a 159 or Brera will first want to consider the different models available, with two basic 159 versions available the saloon and estate, along with the Brera
In 2008, the car was updated, essentially a 45kg weight loss, and a few small changes of trim (the Ti lost auto wipers, blue & me became standard), but apparently all were then fitted with the Q2 differential too (this is an electronically controlled diff). Easiest way to tell is after 2008, the boot badge became the boot release button (previously it was on the headlining!)
Then there are a range of Trim Levels, these have changed over the years, but are essentially:

159

Turismo
: Basic model, flocked Cloth, 16” 415 alloys, painted dash trim ,

Turismo Sport: Rare, Basic model, Sports Cloth seats, 17" 4WQ alloy wheels, Brushed Aluminium Trim, Ti type Sports leather steering wheel

Elegante: Pretty rare, but had 55E 17"alloys, stainless steel kick plates, Alfa Tex seats, parking sensor, blue&me

Lusso: Leather seats, 17” alloys, auto wipers/ rear view mirror/ lights), reverse sensors, metal dash trim, stainless steel kick plates

Ti: Red Brembo brake calipers, 19” wheels, Lowered suspension, Side Skirts, Heated Sports seats (electric till mid 08 with memory on seat and mirros, half leather, half alcantara on later ’10 on models), 60:40 Folding seats (saloon), Sports Steering wheel, Red stitched gear knob, Black Headlining, Auto lights/ wipers/ demist (till mid 08), Blue and Me (didnt became standard on Lusso till mid 08), Brushed silver dash (darkened materials when they changed seats to Alcantara late'10), different dial colours, Aluminium pedals, Satin wing mirrors, Ti sill plates in front, Ti Badges under side repeaters.

Limited Edition (LE/SE): There were a couple of limited editions/ Special editions, including:

James Bond Limited Edition : 250 made, black Lusso (1.9 JTDM only) with Anthracite 10 spoke Ti wheels, brembo calipers, lowered suspension and Ti steering wheel/ dials, leather seats and a few other goodies, but no sports seats or side skirts. Some are labelled at Ti, so watch out (key points to look for are the Ti sports seats have the Alfa logo stitched in red, and the Ti side skirts)

For other parts of Europe they have the following, roughly equivalent levels to the above ( in order), but will depend on your market.

Impression
Sport
Distinctive
Selective
Ti

Brera

Brera (called 'SV' pre 08)

Standard trim (in the UK): aluminium interior trim, sky view roof (hence SV), rear parking sensors, folding mirrors, cruise control, dual zone climate control, and 17" alloys, leather extra
Cars post 08 had 4 pot brembos and slightly different seats, darker dashboard trim, often no sky view/or had a blind over.

Brera S (Prodrive)
Developed with prodrive for better looks and handling: Leather with red stitching, S limited edition badging (on rear quarters, head rest, etc),Leather dash with red stitching (option on the 2.2 standard on the 3.2), Prodrive mudflaps, Prodrive suspension, 19" 8C style horseshoe alloys, S Style Tailpipes (D shaped) with additional expansion chamber on 2.2 for added noise appeal.

Brera Italia Independent
Standard trim, plus opaque-finish "titanium" paintwork, 18" "turbine" style alloy wheels and an aluminium fuel-filler cap

939 Spider

Standard trim

Cloth (leather on 2.4 jtdm and 32 jts)), folding mirrors, 17" alloys, Twin chrome exhaust, dual zone auto climate control, cruise control, split fold rear seats, rear parking sensors,


Italia Independent limited edition
matt finish paint, 18" Turbine alloys Leather seat trim, Lumbar support, Sat Nav

'Limited Edition'
Confusingly named limited edition, one of three colours (Carbonio Black, Alfa Red, Ghiaccio White) plus 19 inch Ti type alloy wheels, leather upholstery, electrically adjustable and heated memory front seats and door mirrors

Petrols
A range of engines was available, 2.2JTS, 1.9JTS and 1.8MPI (all removed 2010, the 2.2 was the most common, others a bit gutless), 3.2 v6 JTS Q4 the top of the range 4wd option, kept through the life, and 1.750 TBI (introduced in 2010 with good reviews). All the engines are pretty reliable, with all but the 1750TBi engine being GM based units.
  • The 2.2 can suffer from low speed hesitation (around 1,100 rpm), a remap can help
  • The timing chain can stretch, the engine management light should come on, should not cause damage, but can cost a bit (£300+)
  • 1750TBi seems to be the pick of the bunch unless you want the power.

Diesels:

1.9 (8v and the much more common 150bhp 16v version), and 2.4 24v (pre 2008 200bhp, post 210bhp (due to different turbo)).
Later a 2.0 became available, which had less issues with DPF or EGR, available in either 136/170bhp, unlike the Giulietta the 136bhp version doesn’t have the intake ‘choke’ preventing big mapping increases.
If you are looking to re-map, the 2.4 and 2.0 are better options (stronger gearbox).

Note: some of the early 2.0 got the M32 gearbox, most got the M40 (stronger but not as smooth), and some later ones got the C635 (mostly the 136 versions).

What to look out for:

  • Stone chipping to bonnet (soft paint),
  • Suspension bushes (any knocking over bumps),
  • Rear springs are known to snap (about 4cm from the bottom), this seems to be more common on the 159 Ti. This should have been sorted as easy to spot, Eibach pro kit are a very common replacement, same height as Ti, better quality, and great price. Replace the shocks at the same time as these are now being seen to fail too (standard OEM, or Biccch
  • Heavy front inside tyre wear (simple 4 wheel alignment to resolve, can be related to the bushes too).
  • Noises on full lock (earlier cars had the wrong power steering fluid (should be green, not red...check before buying)). Consensus is now that unless you hear noises, leave it.
  • Wiper linkage can go (the drivers wiper will foul the bonnet when sweeping, & leaves a triangular mark on the screen, and takes paint off the lip of the bonnet where it contacts).
  • Front Subframe Rust is an emerging issue, some have known to have corroded, if you get the chance to get the car up on a lift, take a look, particularly at the front, which is disappointing. You're likely to see some surface rust spots but some have started to rust through, so have a look into the engine bay and around the suspension arm (lower) mountings in the wheel well
  • The rear door locks can fail, check all the doors and windows open.


  • The cambelt AND waterpump should be changed every 50-60k or 4 years (the manual says longer). Factor this in if its not been done (~£450). Consider the aux belt and pulley (rubber damped, which can degrade).
  • Small puff of smoke on start (cold, damp days) is acceptable, but much more than that could be an issue.
  • 1.9 Gearbox (M32), any movement of the gear stick in gear (esp 5/6th), or whine in 6th gear should be avoided (bearings can go)
  • The 2.4 has plastic coolant valves, these can fail, loosing coolant, so recommended you replace with metal ones (pretty cheap job, £1-2)
  • Low power, especially below 2,000rpm, could be something as simple as the EGR valve (can be had for as little as £80 new, and diy job), or more serious, get the garage to sort it.
Now I've bought it, what now!?

So you've bought the car, other than starting to enjoy it, what should/ can you do that might improve your owning experience. (Other than the usual checking fluids, cam-belt change etc):

  • Have four wheel alignment, can help with the handling and reduce the front inner tyre wear. Alfa changed the official settings to reduce this (if it's never been done it'll probably be off now.
  • If you have a 1.9 or 2.4 JTDM, blank (or partially restrict) the EGR. 90% of engine problems are related to the EGR! This will also improve performance (including mpg), but mainly it will reduce engine issues with time (swirl flaps, gunked up manifold), clean the map sensor a the same time. Blanking the EGR will need an engine map also (Autolusso offer the service including blanking plate for £150), a partial blanking plate (help, but not exclude issues), can be had for £4, and a simple DIY job. DPF can also be removed, but is a contentious issues (search for threads on the matter) due to the MOT.
  • 1.9JTDm? Replace the oil in the M32 gearbox, they are prone to failure (as mentioned above), oil overheats and thins out, replace with thicker (Redline MT90 or Fuchs Titan Sintofluid 75W-80 are popular options.
  • Powerflex bushings, the standard bushings allow some movement, and can contribute to inner edge tyre wear/ vague steering. Marginally more expensive than OEM bushing ( you re-use the wishbone, rather than replace the whole thing). Will also reduce suspension smoothness slightly (more transmitted to cabin). I did mine when the bushings died naturally (~6 years old)
  • Suspension, replace the snapping prone springs with Eibach pro kit, they are -30/35mm (~same as Ti,). Better quality (avoid snapped springs), improved ride. Also consider the dampers, will be getting old now, Bilstein B4 is considered OEM spec (ie not an upgrade for insurance purposes). Eibachs are ~£130 for full set, Bilsteins B4 ~£60 per corner.
  • Sat-Nav, very much optional! The standard CD player and OEM sat nav are a different size (crazy I know), so you cannot retrofit an OEM one, you will need a different adaptor if replacing the OEM SatNav (which is not great anyway)
  • Replace speakers, again optional, standard 6.5" components will fit with spacers (same as for the 147).
  • Replace dipped beams with HIDs (35/55w) for brighter lights.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Just a few things:

The Brera never had the trim levels of the 159. Maybe delete Brera from the title and have a separate thread or add-in more detail?
No mention of the Spider, though it's pretty much as the Brera with the added bonus of 'hood issues'.

The 2.2 also has the gearbox as noted for the 1.9 :eek:.
 
#7 · (Edited)
One of the most asked questions, so written this, will edit as needed, please comment on this for any major corrections or additions, will request it be made a sticky. Possibly needed some info on Brera trim levels please.


Trim Levels

Turismo: Basic model, Velour seats, 16” wheels, painted dash trim,

Lusso: Leather seats, 17” alloys, auto wipers/ rear view mirror/ lights), reverse sensors, metal dash trim, stainless steel kick plates

Ti: Red Brembo brake calipers, 19” wheels, Lowered suspension, Side Skirts, Heated Sports seats (electric till mid 08 with memory on seat and mirros, half leather, half alcantara on later ’10 on models), 60:40 Folding seats (saloon), Sports Steering wheel, Red stitched gear knob, Black Headlining, Auto lights/ wipers/ demist (till mid 08), Blue and Me (didnt became standard on Lusso till mid 08), Darkened dash materials, different dial colours, Aluminium pedals, Satin wing mirrors, Ti Sill plates in front, Badges under side repeaters.


What to look out for:

  • Stone chipping to bonnet (soft paint),
  • Suspension bushes (knocking over bumps),
  • Heavy front inside tyre wear (simple 4 wheel alignment to resolve).
  • Noises on full lock (earlier cars had the wrong power steering fluid (should be green, not red).
  • Wiper linkage can go (the drivers wiper will foul the bonet when sweeping, & leaves a triangular mark on the screen).
  • Subframe Rust is an emerging issue, some have known to have corroded, if you get the chance to get the car up on a lift, take a look, particularly at the front, which is disappointing. You're likely to see some surface rust spots but some have started to rust through, so have a look into the engine bay and around the suspension arm (lower) mountings in the wheel well



Petrols

  • The 2.2 can suffer from low speed hesitation (around 1,100 rpm), a remap can help
  • The timing chain can stretch, the engine management light should come on, should not cause damage, but can cost a bit (£300+)
I was informed there is a Base trim ( 15" or 16" wheel ), then a Turismo ( 16" Wheel ) , then Turismo Sport ( 17" Wheel ), then Turismo S.E ( 18" Wheel ) , Lusso ( 17" / 18" Wheel ), Elegante ( 17" Wheel ) then Ti ( 19" Wheel )

My Turismo S.E , has 18" wheels, Full Leather, and lots of toys that would be in a Lusso or Ti. Probably better equipped than later 159's as standard. Alfa never got to grips with specifications in the 159's late 2005 - late 2008, just like they did with the 156's with SP1 - SP3 Packs with Turismo, Veloce, Lusso, Ti's, GTA trims

Suggest that you list all the petrol models as you have done with the 1.9 and 2.4 diesels, 2.2 maybe the preferred choice even though it has issues, but the other 3 engines, 1.8 TBI, 1.9JTS and 1.8MPI, maybe in smaller numbers compared to the 2.2, but do not suffer the same problems as the 2.2. Also not to exclude the mighty 3.2 V6 in Q2 / Q4 format.
 
#8 ·
Turbo trouble
Check the turbo - listen for a 'whine' on starting from cold and if you can, get the Turbo Power Boost checked. If too low then AVOID. Excessive blue smoke if turbo seals and or bearing gone.

(50,000miles.Had a series of problems all linked to 'breathing'. Loss of power when heavy acceleration . Mango replaced vacuum switch and EGR under warranty. Worked for a short while. Then DPF removed (totally clogged) finally replaced Turbo*. Sorted! (I hope!)

(* 2 sorts of turbo. My 210BHP has a Garrett. Dont go for 'remanufactured' @ £250+ under any circumstances.They will tell you they a 'new quality' they are not! Only fit new, remember you are driving a £30,000 motor. AutoLusso sell @£599 inc tax other suppliers £825 inc Tax pay about £400 for fitting and make sure they remap.
 
#9 ·
A few thoughts from an Australian perspective.

The TI model lost electric seats compared to the earlier cars as part of the weight saving - this might be part of the UK Lusso spec.

Tyre wear isn't necessarily just a simple four wheel alignment fix. The lower suspension bush can fail readily, so a stiffer bush can be needed to improve the retention of the alignment. The front suspension lacks camber adjustment as standard, so the only way to adjust this is to release the subframe and laterally move it to get the best compromise for the two wheels.

The timing chain stretching might only cost 300 pounds on a 4 cylinder, but buying GM bits will cost at least 500 pounds for the V6, 1500 from Alfa, and at least three days to take the engine out, make the change and then reinstall with a re-gassed air conditioning system and a new wheel alignment.

I'd add that the in-tank fuel pump can go and give all sorts of weird symptoms. For cars on 19 inch wheels, the standard tyre size is unusual and relatively expensive. It is worth looking at what tyres are on the car as the tyres will influence car-to-car comparisons. TI models have been known to suffer from cracked rear springs.
 
#11 ·
Depends on who you ask...but yes same for both! Depends because the books says something stupid like 90k/ 4 years. Gradually been revised downwards to 50k/ 4years ish. Think I'll get mine done around 60k as I do high mileage ( so short time) and it fits in nicely with servicing.


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#14 ·
Rear door handle/lock is a fairly common failure. Usually still opens from outside only, sometimes (or eventually?) won't open at all so don't put off the fix too long. Part not too expensive via Italy (eBay). Fairly easy DIY job.
 
#15 ·
I put the change on pause and have been away for a few weeks, I took the 156 over to Europe for the LM24 and the CLM24 plus some running around. The car ran faultlessly and was a joy to drive. Anyway, the search is now on again, I have decided on a 159 2.4, thats as far as I have got, however I spotted one for sale with a cutch that rattled, so is this something I need to listen out for, and is it a replacement clutch. I don't mind doing that if its reflected in the price.
The search is on again!
 
#16 ·
Leaky 'leccy. More of an annoyance than anything. Leave a 159 much more than a week and the battery will be flat as a flute.

Original batteries all a bit underspec, most replaced by now as they seem to die around 4 years old but even a recently upgraded one will get drained if left.
 
#20 · (Edited)
AFAIK AU-spec Ti never lost the full power adjustable / heated seats or the auto wipers throughout its model life. And none of the batch 1 of 4 to Australia Ti cars have sunroof, because Ateco figured that having paid so much for a Ti, nobody was then going to pay more for a roof!

Examples of the Ti TBi in Australia with textile seats (red trim) are originally ZA-spec cars; 18" wheels is another indicator of that batch.

Faulty water pump bearing means new timing belt under warranty at 16000km. Bad, but also good...!
 
#24 ·
A beauty! :) just ensure the essentials are done: EGR blank, cam belt done, and wheel alignment correct ( bushes will improve this too).


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#25 ·
I keep reading about the egr blank off plate plus remap ! I had the egr problems on my 2.4 20v 156 I stripped it down cleaned it up was ok after that .water pump and cambelt was done 4 weeks ago when I bought the car , will have the wheels alignment cheeked the weekend ive got to have two rear tyres fitted anyway .
 
#28 ·
Hi Guys,

Bought recently before seeing this guide, car has faulty gearbox (as per garage), i assumed it was a wheel bearing as the noise came form left front, a slight whirring, only became apparent once up to 20-30 mph, very faint, it got louder as car got faster, but if i put the gear stick into neutral, noise never changed, the noise didnt seem to get louder as the revs climbed, only when car got quicker, everything to me said it was to do with the wheels turning , no change under braking so i ruled out sticky brakes, and as i said it didnt seem related to engine revs and no difference even when gearbox was disengaged, i have been quoted £1k and advised its a bearing, what are the signs of this fault and more importantly what options are there in regards to a fix, i don't see the point of putting the exact same thing back in( albeit a brand new one) if its going to fail again, are their any options out their regarding increasing the lifespan beofre next failure ?
 
#29 ·
Sounds the same as mine.
I have a 2.2 that shares the same crap M32 gearbox as your 1.9.
However, mine's been like that for 2 and a half years now and has perhaps got very slightly noisier though it's difficult to tell when I'm using the car day in, day out.
If it is the M32, the experts say it'll deteriorate quickly, probably within 1k miles.
 
#30 ·
Blanking EGR on all 159 diesels?

I bought a 5 yr old 159 jtdm 8 V with 80000 km. Although it drove excellent I had it completely serviced by our local Ital car specialist. This maintenance included cambelt, other v belts, waterpump, injectors, airco refill, etc.

Can someone advise on the often mentioned EGR blanking?
Is ithis necessary on the 8 valve type engine as well?
 
#31 ·
I bought a 5 yr old 159 jtdm 8 V with 80000 km. Although it drove excellent I had it completely serviced by our local Ital car specialist. This maintenance included cambelt, other v belts, waterpump, injectors, airco refill, etc.

Can someone advise on the often mentioned EGR blanking?
Is ithis necessary on the 8 valve type engine as well?
It is not necessary, but very advantageous! It will help the performance and help to prevent more soot etc getting into the manifold, which results in more problems down the line.

You can also fit a restrictor plate (a blanking plate with a small hole on), will give much of the benefit without having to map the engine light out.
Available in e-bay (have a search on this forum for links and advise).
 
#33 ·
There is an official Alfa restrictor plate, but doubt most dealers would do it (or would charge an hours labour for it), very much a 10min diy job
 
#36 · (Edited)
The gas boot struts that hold the boot open fail on the saloon cars - the ends crack. Very cheap and DIY repair with better than original available at 12.99 +VAT here:-

Alfa Romeo 159 Tailgate/Boot Gas Strut - 60680087 2443TD

If they are broken you will notice that the boot opens more than it should and you can see the cracked ends. The ones I have listed have steel end sockets rather than plastic that the originals have.
 
#37 ·
Blue & Me (B&M) not a great system in the first place. Marrying Microsoft Windows with Italian electronics was never going to be a success.

Make sure you see it working. If not with your phone then at least with the owner's. Some are an easy fix but some are corrupted beyond repair and if it isn't working it is less than 50/50 that you will be able to restore it.

If it is working think long and hard before attempting to up date it. Almost all B&M units are bricked (broken beyond repair) while attempting an update. Your CD and radio will still work but your phone connection and playing audio from phone or other USB device is lost forever or until you can find a replacement unit.
 
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