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Charging problems

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charging
1K views 13 replies 3 participants last post by  mr.b 
#1 ·
I've been driving a '03 156 1.9 JTD Sportwagon for 3 years with absolutely no problems - expect for the odd rattle. But last week it died on the M6 after showing ABS, EBD and VDC failure messages - the battery light started showing up about 5 minutes earlier but only at low revs. Changed the battery to discount that and it is still the same - battery light at low revs, but even at higher revs the alternator does not seem to be charging. Had a quick diagnosis today but no error codes showed up. I was thinking it was the alternator but then the guy who checked it out said he thought it may be ECU controlled and as such may be the ECU!?! Plus it looks like a pig to get out! I'd appreciate any advice/ideas anybody might have. Looks like it could end up in some open wallet surgery.

Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
If you have a digital test meter, check the battery voltage both with the engine off and with the engine running.

With the engine not running you should have about 12.6V
With the engine running it should be about 14V

If it shows 14V then the alternator is probably ok.

And yes the alternator is a pain to get to!
 
#3 ·
Cheers, already tried that - there is no change in battery voltage either way. Its around 12.3V at the moment, but it reduces the longer I have the engine running. Also managed to check it directly at the alternator(just) - no difference. Almost looks like an engine out job!!
 
#4 ·
It does sound like the alternator and your battery is already close to flat (12.2V or less is flat).

I'm sure it is possible to remove it without removing the engine, but it may need the engine moving slightly to improve access.
 
#6 ·
I was pretty sure it was the alternator as soon as it happened but having spoken to an auto electrician he said it could have been the battery. Got one for £30 and tried it but no difference - although I have been able to drive it for a bit on the battery. Took it to a mechanic I know and he plugged in his diagnostic kit and couldn't find anything. The only thing he mentioned was that it could be ECU controlled and as such could be that and not the alternator.

I think i'm going to take it to the dealer and pay for them to diagnose the fault then when I know what it is I'll fix it myself (If I can). I don't want to keep buying and replacing bits if it turns out to be something else!
 
#8 ·
I haven't checked the signal wire - I noticed there was another wire attached but not sure how to test it. Any advice on how to would be appreciated.

Have you any idea what spec/manufacturer part no. the alternator is, or where I could get some new brushes from?

Thanks.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I'll give that a whirl and see what I get - just out of interest what does it mean if there is no voltage?

I thought I'd seen somewhere that it was Bosch but couldn't find any conclusive proof I had a look on the Bosch Car Parts website but the info on there is useless - if you could confirm it that would be great.
 
G
#12 ·
It is often useful to look at a larger engined vehicle in same range to get a beefier Alternator for more power. If you can get it out and to an auto-sparkie, the bush change is quick. However I have found that it is often cheaper to get a re-conditioned alternator than fix the current one!

Andy
 
#14 ·
OK no problem - thanks for the help.

Bit of an update - I ended up dropping it of at the local Alfa Dealer (Caledonia) so they could check it out throroughly (£90 diagnostic charge) as I go on holiday in a few weeks. Turns out even though the servicing has been done outside the limits set by the 3rd Yr warranty document they are covering it - so its not going to cost me a penny!! Good news or what! Plus they've been ringing me the last couple of days saying they've found a few other bits and pieces and they are all covered under the warranty as well!!

So for the time being Caledonia are the best thing since sliced bread!! No doubt that will change soon enough though!

Thanks again for all your help.
 
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