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Buying a GT with a Heavy Clutch??

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3K views 25 replies 9 participants last post by  marky89 
#1 ·
hi guys. iv been to look at a gt today. fell in love straight away. little bit unhappy it has cloth interior but its still amazing and a very gd price.
When i took it for a text drive the clutch seemed to be very heavy. is this normal for the GT's?
also are there any other problems with the GT.
car only has 54k miles with 1 lady owner. will the cam belt need replacing at 60k?

just would like as much info about these cars as possible. id like to own this car for a gd few years and keep it in excellent condition.

thanks
mark
 
#2 ·
Hi, you dont say what engine it is so I'm guessing its a 1.9 jtd, if the clutch is heavy then it could be on its last legs, but does depend on how bad it is, if it does need changing its not a cheap job as most people recommend changing the duel mass flywheel at the same time so expect about £450 for parts alone plus about 7 hours labour to do the job.
Cam belt, If you do buy the car get the belt changed as soon as you can along with the water pump which is the part that usually fails causing the belt to go, no point in waiting untill 60k, good news is its an easy and quite cheap job to do, expect about £300-350 fitted.
 
#3 ·
assume its the diesel....
- yes normal for heavy clutch, but it can be made lighter with a couple of hours DIY and minimal tools
- cambelt, if still on original, should be done NOW ....also waterpump at same time

check for knocks and squeeks as you go over speed bumps ....can be a sign that some suspension components may need changing soon.
 
#4 ·
i didnt know these cars suffer DMF problems as well. my stupid mondeo ill be part ex had the same problem. so pointless.
but yeah its the 1.9jdt.
how would i go making the clutch lighter with this little bit of DIY.
so basically im looking at buying a car and spending £350 straight away on it. doesnt sound to gd any more. would it be possibly for me to change the water pump then get a garage to do the belt and timing, or is it a job that needs to be done in 1 go?
car only had 1 lady owner from new and has gd service history, so i can imagine its been looked after.
cheers guys.
ill look back on here tomorrow for any more tips or info.
thanks
 
#5 ·
The water pump gets changed with the cambelt (the cambelt drives the water pump). The water pumps on these can seize and snap the cambelt. Water pumps are only about £40 with very little extra labour.

You can use this to knock the price down if it needs to be done soonish :thumbs:
 
#10 ·
Yeah mate. I'm going to insist on receipt for all work done. Even stuff that gets done on mot. Are there any popular mods ppl like to do on these cars, increase power, handling, looks? Really love these cars and plan on keeping it for a long time
 
#19 · (Edited)
exactly tools were probably just 10mm / 13mm spanner and socket, a circlip removal tool, screwdriver.

there will be a pictorial guide in the big thread about this but i'll detail the steps anyway

take negative off battery
remove fuse box from top of battery
take positive off battery
remove strap from battery (awkward) and remove.
Remove fuses from front of battery tray (i recorded which ones went where just incase it was important in future)
remove battery tray, you now have access to the accentuator arm.
There are 2 circlips you can see, one is 1/2cm across which sits horizontally on top of the rusty coloured arm and one is large, about 3/4cm and sits vertically on the slave cylinder (the one with the rubber boot on it)
Remove the cap from the brake/clutch fluid reservoir
remove the large circlip and unclip the flexi hose which feeds the slave from its clip and get someone to gently press the clutch pedal and it should push the slave out.
remove the small circlip and pull out the arm (its splined so you can't put it back on wrong)
clean the area around the "geared" bit which it now exposed and you'll notice a white bush with a notch in it which will fit a small screw driver.
Prise this out.
The hole it leaves is where you need to drip the grease, or do what i did and syringe it in by forcing a straw onto the end of a syringe. i used 10ml or grease.
clean and grease the white bush and refit everything

B@
 
G
#22 ·
If you look up and left of the clutch pedal you will see a rubber cap which covers the shaft. It's simply pulls back. I think a lot of folks have tried all sorts of grease in this area but because Isofex has high adhesion to surface it tends to stay in place making it a longer term solution.
 
#24 · (Edited)
thanks very much for the walk through guide. u have made me feel alot more confident about talking this now. i was going to get moutainbike dry chain lube for this. but did u guys use the isofles greese on both the pedel and the arm?

quick off topic question, since iv not got my alfa yet, can some tell me if the rever is a lift up or just a normal gear? just need a new gear know as the one on the car is battered. looking for a chrome alfa replacment.
cheers
mark
 
#26 ·
i tried this method of greasing up the clutch today. hasnt worked. i bought some dry lub for chains and sprockets and gear mechanisms. but clutch is still really stiff. i also sprayed wd40 on the clutch part inside the car.
any recomendations will be great,
thanks
mark
 
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