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Torsion Bar Adjustment

7K views 16 replies 4 participants last post by  daiblack 
#1 ·
Well I have spoken to a few Alfa places down here and they don't really have much of an idea about how to adjust it. I asked one if they could also adjust the Konis to suit to which he replied "What you want them on full?". No I want them adjusted to suit obviously. So this lead me to think that maybe I could do a better job.

However the 75 WkShop Manual only tells me how to remove and reinstall the bars. Anybody got an further tips on how to adjust them? I want to lower the front of the car to match the rear springs. Do you just move it by a few splines drop the car to the ground and see how low it has gone and then try again if your not satisfied?

Thanks,
Simon
 
#3 ·
On me old GTV I tried moving the torsion bars three splines on each side. When I drove the car of the ramps it stood on the sump :eek: :rolleyes: . I settled for 1 spline, which left the car very low.

Theres bound to be a description of it some where on the net. I think the ride height can be fine tuned with a combination of moving the torsion bar in both the front and rear mounting holes.

-- Hoygs
 
#4 ·
I found this on WWW.GTV6.ORG

Hi All!

Lee from Perth, W. Australia wants to know the answer
to adjusting the front suspension height on Alfettas.

I have page 60 of the Workshop Manual and I quote:

The front suspension height is adjusted by rotating
the torsion bars. The different number of splines
at the ends of the torsion bars, i.e. 35 at
the front and 34 at the rear, allows for a minimum
correction of 1.5mm., which corresponds to the rotation
by one spline. Correct the suspension height as
shown in the illustration, and detailed in the chart listing
the relevant correction values. It should be noted that
the instructions refer to the suspension when it is viewed
from the rear.

End of quote.

Then follows a diagram showing the torsion bars from
the (rear) end. When the left hand bar is rotated
anti-clockwise and/or the right hand bar is rotated
clockwise, the car is raised. Conversely, when the
left hand bar is rotated clockwise and/or the right
hand bar is rotated anti-clockwise, the car is lowered.

You have to realise that you don't simply move one
end of the bar by one spline, you have to rotate the
bar relative to both splined sockets, one on
the lower suspension A member and one on the socket
fixed to the body. That is why there are a different
number of splines at each end. It gives a fine
incremental adjustment of 1.5mm. To simply rotate
one end would give a very considerable adjustment!
Some people have problems in their mind with this
concept, but think about it.



HTH, Hoygs
 
G
#5 ·
When I had my 75 it was a little down on the drivers side, at first I tried just moving the arm by 1 spline (not good more like a 4x4) so I used the technique that Hoygaard has outlined I even bought the special tool to make it easier......... :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :D
 
#6 ·
drew said:
spoken to the italian job?

when my 2.5 got done there, they gave me the option of how i wanted my konis adjusted....i just said "arrrghhhh put it on full" hahah
Yeah I have spoken to them. But if they are just going to put the Konis on full and say all done come and collect it without any fine tuning then there is no point. I can do it and it will be considerably less than the ~$300AUD that they quoted.


daiblack said:
When I had my 75 it was a little down on the drivers side, at first I tried just moving the arm by 1 spline (not good more like a 4x4) so I used the technique that Hoygaard has outlined I even bought the special tool to make it easier......... :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :D
Apparently that special tool is no longer available. But can be replicated with a large socket and an appropriately sized bolt.


Hoygaard said:
I found this on WWW.GTV6.ORG

I have page 60 of the Workshop Manual
Thanks for that Hoygaard I found other posts on there about this but not that one. I was looking in the front suspension section of the Alfa75 manual and not the Workshop manual section of the manual (downloaded as different PDF chunks). So now I can see the diagrams that are mentioned in your description. However they are on page 00-84 (Alfa numbering) and page 92 (Adobe Acrobat page number).

Thanks,
Simon
 
#8 ·
Found it:

{QUOTE="Zamani - GTV6.org Forum"}

Here is how you adjust the ride height:
  1. Remove the plastic cap on the rear torsion bar subframe.
  2. Slide the rubber sheath on the torsion bar where it meets the lower A-arms.
  3. Spray A LOT of liquid wrench/penetrating oil, onto the splines on both ends of the torsion bars. Let it sit overnight, and then spray more.
  4. Buy 4 bolts of M12 X 1.25 or was it M12 X 1.50 hmmm.... anyway buy a pair of long ones (4"-6") and a pair of short ones (3"-4").
  5. Buy a lot of washers for the bolt, buy 10 of them.
  6. Find yourself a socket (for ratches) or some kind of strong hollow pipe about 24mm inside diameter, that will be used to extract the torsion bar out of the rear subframe.
  7. Use the long bolt and washers and screw the bolt into the torsion bar. Becareful not to overtighten the bolt. Once it starts feeling tight, you have hit the bottom of the bar and DO NOT tighten anymore. You will strip the torsion bar's thread and the bolt's thread. As soon as the bolt feels tight, unbolt it, but in about 3-4 washers.
  8. Do so until the torsion bar, is level with the rear of the subframe. Then use the socket, washers and shorter bolt to extract the torsion bar out.
* ! * When doing the job, be sensitive about when to stop tightening the bolt into the torsion bar.​

* ! * If you can get U shaped shims, that would make the job much easier as you don't have to undo the bolt completely to insert the shims.​

If your bar is not seized in the subframe, the whole job of extraction should take no longer than 30 mins per side.

{/QUOTE}
 
#11 ·
daiblack said:
I hate to say this but the torsion bar thread on a 75 is M10x1.25 I know as I have the Alfa special tool and have measured the thread :) :)
I am glad you did say! :D


@Drew: That is a max sort of price as it all depends how much trouble they have. And Alfa places always without fail give a quote and then $50-$100 at the end of the job. :mad:

Simon
 
#13 ·
Hmm, not trying to be picky, but are you sure that you know what you want in terms of ride, handling balance and tyre wear. The front suspension is nicely adjustable and can be set to produce just about any type of result. :)

I fitted a fully adjustable DKW? susension to an Impreza recently and the guy couldn't tell me if he wanted sharp turn in, lift off oversteer, power oversteer, how much roll steer he expected or even what sort of ride quality he wanted retained. All he said was "lower". In all honesty though, I was probably taking the ****.

I only hope you are sure what you are looking for and what returns to expect before parting with the hard earned. I would suggest not to lower the front by more than about 20mm so as to retain some ground clearance. It would also mean that the damping rates would not have to be upped too much to stop the roll centre lowering still further and thus creating more roll and less grip.
 
#14 ·
I don't really want to lower the front too much at all. 20mm was my idea of a maximum as well. But to be honest I don't want the front to drop at all. But it has to because the headlights are pointing skywards and it looks really odd. At the moment I am trying to chase up some shims that Alfa made for the rear suspension adjustment (7mm, 14mm & 21mm). I like the way the car sticks at the rear end now with the lowered springs but this is a road car and as such will be going over some attrocious crossovers and lumpy roads. So to lower the front would mean sump and front spoiler damage especially if I decide to go back to Tassie for the summer where crossovers are almost deadly for fully grown 4WDs. I did want to get Spax shocks for it but they were twice the price of Koni ($640 a pair for Spax).

However I have spotted some NOS Spax shockers on eBay being sold by Proven Suspension for Alfa75s and they are starting at $150 a pair. So if anyone in Australia wants some good shocks cheap then there you go.

Simon
 
#15 · (Edited)
Funny you mention the rear spring shims. I just fitted -30mm Eibachs 10 days ago and it dropped the car by 10mm! Seems the original springs had lowered themselves! Anyway, it's now too low and I'm about to start looking for these shims. Does anyone have any pointers? :confused:
 
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