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How I changed my rear brakes, maybe a guide to follow?

8K views 39 replies 16 participants last post by  bluetonic 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi, replaced my rear brakes this morning and noticed that there was not a guide on the forum:

Doesn't take long at all, and a piston rewind tool is a god send!

Tools required:


Step 1: Open bonnet, undo cap on brake fluid res. Loosen wheel nuts and jack up car - might need to use a scissor jack to make room for a trolley jack - remove wheel and look at ugly old brakes.



Step 2: Inspect calipers and surrounding bits to make sure nothing is amiss, locate the two bolts that hold the calipers on. Undo the two bolts.





Step 3: Wiggle off caliper from disc - might need some gentle assistance.
Step 4: Undo little locating bolt that holds disc in place



Step 5: Remove old pads and put in bin



Step 6: Slide of caliper slidey bit ready for the rewind tool, fit rewind tool and slowly rewind the piston



Step 7: The piston has four slots in it, make sure one slot on the piston is in the 12 o'clock position as the pads have a little notch on the back.

Step 8: Clean and regrease sliders, fit new pad and slider, then fit second pad.



Step 9: Slide disc into caliper and put disk on wheel hub, bolt the caliper back on.



Step 10: Torque up bolts and refit wheel



Step 11: Do up res cap and check level of fluid. Finish cup of tea :)

It is possible for a bit of fluid to spill from the res as you wind the piston in. This okay. Top up fluid if required.

If your pads are very worn the fluid may appear slightly low due to the pistons being further out etc.
 
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#3 ·
they look like MTEC discs?? I swear by them, used them for many different cars and never had probs..waiting on some fronts from them at the mo.

*TIP - Paint the hubs with hi temp caliper paint before fitting to avoid the ginger rusty look :) I also do the outer edges, any over run is soon scrubbed off by the pads.
 
#5 ·
Step 1: Open bonnet, undo cap on brake fluid res. Loosen wheel nuts and jack up car - might need to use a scissor jack to make room for a trolley jack - remove wheel and look at ugly old brakes.

stupid question but do i need to tighten back up the brake fluid res cap? and how do i know if pressure and levels are correct afterwards?
 
#15 ·
A couple of extra general points to add to the guide if you don't mind.:). First is to chock the front wheels because the handbrake needs to be off when changing the pads.Next, on any car with this type of caliper, when the job is finished make sure to pump out the pistons first with the foot brake before applying the hand brake or it can send the adjustment haywire.
 
#19 ·
One double six - that is a good point, I did infact chock the fronts but forgot to write it in. I sometimes over look the obvious but shouldn't when writing a guide, especially if people are going to follow it verbatum.

Quango2k - I agree, thats why I didn't drill the fronts, just put some pretty dimples in them :) I am guessing its the grooves that make the real difference as rally cars mainly use grooved discs, but the difference is probably only noticable when you are hammering brakes lots, and on the limit the whole time.
 
#24 ·
this thread should be in the "how to" thread. Great write up. I'm gonna let the admin know about this thread.
 
#27 ·
Further brake pad changing tip

V6 and beyond, thank you for posting this - it gave me the confidence to try and it and I succeeded :).

A few further comments,
My pads had worn considerably, and so the pistons were quite a way out of their housings, which meant that the pistons needed a lot of rewinding to go right back in to their housings. So unless you are taking the callipers apart, the rewind tool is absolutely invaluable.

The drive plate on the rewind tool I used (Laser rewind tool available at Halfords) has little notches on both sides. The side I used is the one that has the notches closer together. The notches are there to mate with the pistons and help turn the piston back in to the calliper housing.

Questions: As per the attached picture, you can see that the contact material on the pad on the had totally worn away at the top :)tut:). The pad on the right was taken from the calliper on the other wheel as a comparison - might I have a sticking piston? If so what is the best way to remedy that?
 

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#28 ·
Good write up, I shall be attempting this soon, is it essential to buy/use the special tool to wind back the piston or can it be done by other means. I'm sure I remember doing it on other cars ( a long time ago) with a pice of flat steel about 5mm thick and 25mm wide.
 
#33 ·
if you find the rear pistons are stiff and cant be wound back using needle nose pliers or suchlike
Then you should wind the piston completely out and remove all the dirt and rust that's on it. Then use some silicone grease and put it back together. It should go in by hand. Sometimes the rubber inside gets stretched and it's difficult ot wind the piston back into position, so change the seals too.
 
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