Bio diesel is processed vegetable oil there is nothing from crued oil in it. There's a place in York that sell it. Or its made from new rape seed oil. Its Cetane rating is lower than pump diesel. Full on bio diesel is'nt sold on major filling station forecourts.
You mean that one on the A64 opposite the Highwayman cafe? If so, it shut down when the price of diesel dropped 30p a litre, at the back end of last year. The bloke told me they were carrying on producing bio in small quantities and stock-piling used oil, just not selling the finished product. I used quite a few tanks of it in my Mondeo 1.8 TD after the price of neat veggie oil went up, I was running 50:50 on veg and pump diesel, veg @ 50p a litre and pump diesel at £1.28 a litre. Worked out about 40p a litre saving over normal pump diesel, plus the car felt torquier and smoother at lower revs, although it didn't rev past 3k rpm as well as on pure pump diesel. When I went over the to the bio diesel it felt just like pump diesel really. 50:50 veg & pump diesel would kill a JTD quick though.
Correction, the methanol used to thin out the purified veg oil eats away at your pump seals. @ what percentage methanol the pump seals start to die is another question entirely..
My 2.4 JTD is a 2003 model interior face lift, what I have noticed that there no cloud of black smoke when I boot it Economy seems the same so far. It was 62 litres for 49 notes
The smoke will be a lot lighter in colour, but I think it will still be there. Noticed this on my Mondeo with veg oil, it still smoked but the smoke wasn't dark. The only time it smoked more was on start-up.
Well a tank has cost me 49 quid to fill up which is quite a saving, seems to running fine not noticed any difference yet. Will keep you guys updated on ecomomy and performance
Pump bio is 95% regular diesel and 5% bio. You can buy 100% bio but not on Tescos's forcourt! Last time i looked 100% bio was quite a bit more expensive that either of the pump varieties because its made in small refineries, kind of a back street operation.
Post 1992 JTD's can be safely run on 5% bio. The only issue with going higher is that you might have starting problems come winter time plus Alfa probably say that they only recommend up to 5% blend and going higher may void your warranty.
Shouldn't have any issues in practice though.
Really don't see the point in using biodiesel in an Alfa Romeo. My JTD 16v 150bhp really likes the BP Ultimate, better performance and even quieter at idle. I think the detergents they use keep everything a little more clean as well, certainly the turbo response feels more eager.
No way would I use biodiesel to save a few quid. If you want to go the bio route, drive around in a tractor instead:lol:
My 2.4 JTD is a 2003 model interior face lift, what I have noticed that there no cloud of black smoke when I boot it Economy seems the same so far. It was 62 litres for 49 notes
The major difference with bio diesel is its lack of lubrication and hence the pump and injectors will run dry and could seize even breaking the cam belt....
We will have to see what the outcome is with turbole testing his car over a longer period of time:thumbs: but i like the sound of this bio stuff and look forward to the results.
Was running on pure bio diesel for about 6 months. after 1000miles replaced fuel filter car ran perfectly, in fact ran smoother. Only one small downside, in very cold weather, took a little more cranking to start. I would still be using it but my supplier closed down for some reason.
Ummm. it's an oil, with a cetane rating of 90. It lubricates. Check out Angel Tuning's experience or that of others. Or call the biodiesel provider. It's pretty much 99% the same. Differences arise from how the oil is sourced. Traditional oil is from the ground, and so has plant matter in it (for example) - hence ash, hence DPF. Biodiesel is from kebab shops, and so has 'other' matter in it (lamb?) - hence change of oil filter. There have been recipes to "make your own", which involve using various agents (sodium methoxide and water mists) to clean the sourced-oil. THIS you could get wrong and screw up your car with.
Traditional oil is from the ground, and so has plant matter in it (for example) - hence ash, hence DPF. Biodiesel is from kebab shops, and so has 'other' matter in it (lamb?) - hence change of oil filter. There have been recipes to "make your own", which involve using various agents (sodium methoxide and water mists) to clean the sourced-oil. THIS you could get wrong and screw up your car with.
It has to be filtered to 1 micron so theres no bits in it and you have to thoroughly wash it free of lye before its used! And all oil has organic matter in it!
Dont forget the diesel engine was designed to run on ANY oil and it still can (used/new cooking oil, palm oil, lard, tallow, candle wax). Modern common rail cars might need some mods, but they can burn all of it. It was only in the 1930s that oil companies cynically re-named an oily waste product of making petrol "diesel oil" to capitalise on the increasing success of the compression ignition engine. The name stuck, it became the default option and the oil companies laughed all the way to the bank.
I thought about this when I first got a JTD as there is a place in Sheffield that sells the recycled chip fat biodiesel. a few of the guys I work with run VW's on it but not common rail. Apart from winter, they get on OK with it, in winter always run a mix otherwise it can for wax. I wasn't sure how suitable common rails are as I understand the pumps and injectors are much more sensitive to any contanination compared to the traditional diesel. I'd be interested to know how you get on.
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