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alfa 156 2005 facelift driver side driveshaft

4K views 47 replies 5 participants last post by  jonalfaspider 
#1 · (Edited)
hi guys, i took my front drivers side wheel of today as awful vibration between 70-90 mph. The cv boot inner and out have little splits in them and there is play in the drive shaft so want to replace the whole lot.

is there a how to guide for the 156

my 156 is a 2005 1.9 jtd sport, can i buy any 156 drive shaft like pre-facelift, or ts do they share the same parts?

cheers Jon
 
#30 · (Edited)
Yeah, transfer bearing off from the engine and wiggle. I spoke to lots of Alfa experts and you NEVER see a worn inner drive cup on a 156 jtdm 20v. So get a tub of moly and some metal CV ties and away you go. You may want 2 tubs n do the lot. Theres 18 joint srfaces to lube on each joint so they get play if grease is low.
 
#32 ·
Two levers one either side and, pop. V V easy, but its a classic aprentice mistake...using a hammer lol all that does is shake the retainer clip ring about, proberly smashing it up inside making removal IMPOSSIBLE. Been there, seen it elsewhere, seeing it again at the mo lol. Go and have a cupper.
 
#33 · (Edited)
i like to make things hard or myself :lol::(:confused: if i had the funds i would rather pay a garage to do it

im off to get a drink and i need something stronger than a tea lol! i will have to leave it for today and go again tomorrow :rolleyes:

i think i need to invest in some levers will pop to machine mark tomoz morning and be better preparded for round two:)

thanks for the advise :thumbs:
 
#35 ·
You have a trapped clip if it has resistance upon removal, trust me you can do a whole lot of damage(to gearbox) to prove to yourself you know best, or you're onto an adventure removing your shafts. They should pop out with MINIMAL effort, if they don't, something is wrong, and forcing it can work, but why stop now, you should be out there for at least 10 hours for a 3 hour job!!
 
#37 ·
On the end of each shaft its splined inside bit you can't see! A circular groove with square edges is cut into the Diff, that's where the retaining ring clip sits, it needs even pull to break free from its groove. If you hammer it or the diff is worn/old/thrashed, the groove gets burred and or the clip gets out of round then removal becomes V V difficult!!
 
#38 ·
I've had to use bearing fix before, which is like a super hard thread locking glue to remedy slack shafts/splines that were worn/damaged. I don't recommend this approach. If the transfer shaft carrier bearing has play by all means get the driver's side out, if not check cup for wear and knock em back in. Turn the shafts by hand to check for eregular movement/feel, hopfully you haven't done any internal damage and they sill rotate as before!
 
#39 · (Edited)
I don't know about the 16V (OP's car) but the 20V has no circlip on the "long" shaft. I had mine out at the weekend to take gearbox out so I'm 100% sure on that. The short shaft has the conventional circlip (I had that out as well). Thus, the only thing that should be holding your shaft in the gearbox is the bearing next to the cup. Thus, I would be surprised if you have caused damage to seal etc. I suspect the bearing has "tipped" in the housing and jammed. You need to knock it back in a little then try and get it moving square to the housing. Gentle taps (or levering as Multiviz says) around the whole periphery should do it rather than hitting at one spot.

The OP has bought a whole aftermarket shaft which has a different inner cup/spider joint. So the whole thing will have to come out if you want to use the new shaft. Does the new shaft have a bearing by the cup? If not you will have to remove the existing bearing when the shaft is (finally) out. If that bearing is damaged/rusty then you may have to visit a bearing factors to get a replacement. Clean out the bearing housing before pushing new shaft in.

Good luck!

Keith
 
#42 ·
had to leave it for a bit and bring the spider out of retirement for work, I did the the drive shaft out eventually it was seized solid in the bearing housing , in the end lots of spray and large screw driver while hammering on the old bearings slowly and painfully got it out:D as soon as the bearings where free as you said the drive shaft just popped out :thumbs:

new shaft and sort of all done now :) just got to put the final fork bolt in tomorrow morning as ran out of light as its wasn't lining up.

I changed the gearbox oil while I was at it and for anyone looking at doing this there is a tiny (1inch) dipstick right at the back of the box I couldn't see it only feel it, I used a few long pipes connected together and just poured oil straight down the dipstick hole.

on to the fun jobs refurbing my wheels going with silver
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa...oli-grey-best-colour-wheels-silver-black.html

great advise on this forum as always, really appreciate your help guys :thumbs:
 
#43 ·
Well done! Its odd how some cars have more corrosion problems than others. The bearing housing in my 2004 had only a tiny bit of aluminium corrosion and, as said, the bearing just slid out with a gentle tug. I also had no problems with bolts etc on my suspension/sub-frame whilst others have tales of woe of snapped bolts. Even my exhaust system came off without problems. Maybe I'm just lucky?

Keith
 
#44 ·
So the drivers side transfer shaft(including cup) is held by an interferance fit in the support bearing mounted to the rear of the engine. I find Jellonite liquid around the bearing disolves corrosion allowing it to move out much easier from its housing(you still have to hammer it out though!). I usaully take the bearing carrier off the back of the engine, but theres not much room for that with these alfas! Some Saabs had twist n release transfer shafts those can be a bit confusing! If you can get one of you levering on it whilst the other hammers it out(unless you can get a slide hammer to fit), again its very hard with corrosion so a good industrial disolver like Jelonite acts like a liquid spanner. I've had 40 ton presses not move a bearing until Jelonite was used. Prying the ring seal out of the center of bearings (with a small flat blade screwdriver) then packing with moly grease makes them last much longer that factory grease(I do it to ALL my bearings I change). Puts hairs on your chest don't it?
 
#46 ·
Twisting the shock fork with jack handle ,or something, whilst banging the road spring with a rag wrapped hammer shocks the spring into letting the lower shock absorber turn, allowing the lower fork to align properly. This part can not be fitted whilst stressed as it not only makes the bush fail, but it can cause the fork to knock against the lower arm! A miss aligned/seated road spring can be an MOT failure!! Prestress before tightening the long fork bolt by jacking up the lower arm against the spring to about half its travel, this should be done to all fixed suspension rubber bushes otherwise the bushs will fail/rip/split early. Also for saftey only do this after the suspension is back together, NOT half assembled!! BANG the wobbles gone:)
 
#47 ·
Theres alot to remember when working on these cars, when the kids distract you, or you get tired and hungry, thats when things can go wrong. I think a plan of action with all parts n tools need to be done before anyone works on these cars, thats why alot of people take em to a specialist. Check the method as some jobs DO need a lift or expensive tools!!
 
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